It also keeps the bit splines from picking-up dirt on the splines and in the spline grease. If I'm done w/a bit and I am removing it from the hammer drill, I use a plastic bag wrapped-around the splined end of the bit, where the grease is, to keep the grease on the bit and not all-over me, the work area, or other tools. When you use whatever bit, grease the shaft and splines, and go to work. Remove the grease cap on the HFT SDS-MAX tool before you use it, and pack it full. If you had hundreds of holes to drill, you should have a spare bit, that's when I might try a Bosch bit.īuy a tub of general purpose grease from your local auto parts store. Naysayers criticize the HFT bits, my experience was that they did fine for the holes I did.
I bought the HFT 4-carbide inserts per drill bit assortment, and the last hole was as-easy as the first. I just used mine to drill 15 holes 5/8" X 5" and it was probably maybe 40 minutes. Save your $, buy the current HFT SDS-MAX tool, you will be able to drill 60 5 inch holes in probably 2-3 hours, easily. I've posted in other threads about the Harbor Freight Tools SDS-MAX rotary hammer drill/demo hammer I bought. I'm a retired Marine and don't mind working hard but I just don't do projects like this very often. TE-30-C seems ideal for a 1/2" hole as Hilti states that's in its optimum range.Īny thoughts? Sorry if I sound like the weekend guy that just does construction once in a blue moon but that's me. I suppose I'll end up using this tool in the future but, for now, that's my main concern with all the stuff I need to do. It also seems like the TE-7 is pretty decent but that the TE-30 will go through the concrete like butter.
I've heard great things about Hilti and have found some TE-30-C AVR on EBay for $250 that appear to be in working order. I'm all about saving time but I don't want to break the bank. Part of the project will be drilling 40 1/2" DIA, 6" deep holes into the concrete for the wedge anchors that I'll be using for my steel truss garage. I'm going to be demo'ing my existing barn and then getting a concrete foundation and slab poured. It's might be easier to make a PTO driven drill lol.I have a pretty big project coming up with my garage. The drive-shafts usually have about 20" of axial adjustment. Then I would just lower the A-frame down (on a chain from the top hitch) so the saw would only see it's own weight as the down-force. It would have to be snug-ly toleranced so there was not much play in it to keep the saw blade nice and straight. I'd have to build an A-frame to secure to the bottom two points and to hold the gearbox with blade out at the end. I have seen 1 meter diameter diamond wet-saw blades with 1" center-holes I was thinking I could mount to the 1" round output. I found a right angle 1 3/8 6spline to 1" round shaft 1:1 gear box I could drive with a clutched PTO drive shaft. I haven't seen any PTO driven drills either. But after getting this expensive tractor I was hoping to put the 27hp PTO to good use. I thought about air-drilling also, though I am not sure how much paperwork I would have to go through to do blasting (it's probably not permitted for individuals to do that here without extensive training and licensing). My intent would be to cut and split it into more manageable sized pieces to move, while simultaneously putting a nice flat side on both pieces (to be used to make a mortared natural stone retaining wall). Has anyone seen anything like that? It would likely need to use a slip-clutch shaft drive or belt drive, just in case the blade binds. I am looking for something like that, that could run off the rear ~27HP PTO.
Feathers and wedges harbor freight portable#
I recently was watching a show called Jade-fever and they have a portable saw like that, that appears to run off of a generator, or is direct belt-driven. Though I realize at that thickness, the saw would not be forced around, but suspended above the boulder and allowed to cut down at it's own pace. Those cut like a 2.75in wide cut! I was thinking something like a 1/2" wide cut or even less (like a beefy diamond wet-saw blade). I was wondering if anyone has seen a rock-saw implement that would fit on an LX3310? Thus far I have only really seen the bigger wheel-saws that are mounted to skid-steers or mini-excavators and those all seem to run on high volume hydraulics. I will be wanting to move some boulders on my property that will be too large to lift and even some that are likely too large for me to drag on a sled.
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